Frankfurt, Germany
I lost count of the flights of stairs we surmounted during our trip from Boston to Frankfurt, by way of Zurich. All I know is that, schlepping our two carryons and my back pack up and down them all served as a great test of my Atrial Fibrillation status: all gone - knock on wood - it seems. Nonetheless, just as we descended into the lap of Business Class on our 50th anniversary trip, maybe we’ll have to do checked baggage when we turn 80 in a few years. You know, the folks who toss your bags into, frequently, the correct plane’s luggage hold and almost always deliver them to the rotating baggage claim belt, albeit after an indeterminable wait.
Other than that and an unfortunate misadventure finding the Uber pickup spot (never did find it; took a taxi instead) our trip was uneventful. The flight to Zurich was delayed almost an hour by headwinds so we had to hoof it through the Zurich airport with the aforementioned luggage in tow at a rapid clip. But we made it to Dreieich, the town where Kat, Alex and hope live and where Judith and Doug have their apartment.
Dreieich is a funny looking word, even for German. But it’s really Drei+eich = three oaks. It’s Dr-ei-ei-ch instead of oh. I’d call it a very nice, neat and tidy bedroom community of suburban Frankfurt. Pleasant streets, nice looking houses and apartment buildings. Lots of families Some but not a lot of shopping.
We all met at Doug and Judith’s place for a pizza dinner and to plan our trip into Frankfurt the next day, Sunday December 38.
The morning started with breakfast at a nearby (20-minute walk) bakery that, unlike other retail stores, is open on Sunday. Establishments serving food are permitted on Sunday; others are not. The baker who served us spoke good enough English so we didn’t go hungry for lack of German beyond our mispronounced “bitte” and “Danke schöen”s. At least now we could order three of something, having learned drei.
Hope and her parents took us to her apartment, showed us her room and her cat Cadence (the other was in hiding). We also passed by her International school. We then caught a bus and a regional train into downtown Frankfurt. Just as efficient and well managed as you’d expect a German transportation system to be.
Frankfurt was largely destroyed by Allied bombing during WWII. Only the cathedral was spared, either by purposeful avoidance by the Allied bombadeers or divine intervention, so everything we saw was reconstructed, mostly in the 1950s through the 1980s. It’s a financial center for Germany and Europe, housing the European Union Central Bank.
Frankfurt isn’t much of a tourist destination. When we traveled down the Main river on the Viking cruise back in 2008 we floated by with hardly a mention. But that’s OK; it was fun to see a city that doesn’t cater to the tourist trade.
First stop: Haus Wertheym, a speiserestaruant on the main square of the reconstructed old town, just a pig nuckle’s throw from the Main river that flows through the center of town. The restaurant dates from 1479 with great interior ambiance. We sat at the common table, the seven of us sharing it with an elederly gentleman, a pair of well-dressed men and a couple who spent most of the dinner time with their heads almost touching. Romance over schnitzel, German style, I guess.
Lunch consisted of schnitzel, a five-dog German sausage plate (with sauerkraut and roasted potatoes) plus Alex’s pig knuckle, which was so big it would have taken a mighty heave to reach the river. Great tasting food and a fun meal.
The Historische Museum Frankfurt was just across the street from our restaurant. It’s a modern, very nicely done history museum, focusing on Frankfurt. It’s built on foundations that date back as far as the 6th century BCE. A great kid’s section and collections dealing with the past and present history of Frankfurt. While the signs were in English as well as German, our several hours there gave us only a glimpse of all there was to learn.
The most prevelant ruins underlying the museum are from the Hohenstaufen period, from the 11th - 13th centuries when what is now Frankfurt was an independent “free” state of the Holy Roman Empire. It’s position as a leading trading and financial center was established then. The Staufers produced several Germanic kings.
Medieval Frankfurt society was organized around clubs and associations. There were displays from various civic organizations such as choral societies and a gun club.
During the Nazi era, efforts were made to downplay Frankfurt’s position as a financial center, since its success was seen as a result of Jewish bankers, including the Rothchilds. Instead, the city was promoted as a “City of Crafts.” That didn’t catch on and today it’s a financial center again.
Then back by train and bus to our apartment. Doug and I went down the street to Casa Mayor for takeout tapas for dinner.
So far today, Monday, December 29, we’ve been laying low. Doug has a cold that needs tending (rest) and Alex, et al are busy getting ready for our trip tomorrow to Cologne. We ordered Uber Eats sushi for Judith and Doug. Judy and I walked downtown (a mile or so) for dinner at Hey Amore - a great Italian meal. Highly recommended next time you’re in Dreieich.
